The Engine Inside Your Wrist

Words like "Quartz," "Automatic," and "Mechanical" are frequently used while purchasing a watch. However, what do those terms really mean? The movement—also referred to as the "caliber" by some—is essentially the engine that powers the entire apparatus. The inside guts are what move the hands and maintain time. The movement of a watch determines its accuracy, how long it will continue to tick, and how much you will pay for it, just as the engine of an automobile determines its speed and lifespan.

We will go over the three primary categories of watch movements in this guide. You'll be able to tell which one belongs on your wrist at the end.

Quartz Movements

In the late 1960s, quartz technology emerged during what is known as the "Quartz Crisis." By providing far superior accuracy at a significantly lower cost than traditional watchmaking, it completely changed the watch industry.

How it works

The entire device is powered by a battery. A little piece of quartz crystal receives an electrical charge from that battery. That crystal vibrates at a very constant frequency of 32,768 times per second when electricity strikes it. These vibrations are converted into constant pulses by a tiny microprocessor, which powers a tiny motor that moves the watch's hands.

Pros

Quartz timepieces are incredibly precise. They only gain or lose a few seconds every month, sometimes as little as five to ten seconds over the course of a year. They need very little maintenance. All you need to do is replace the battery every one to three years. They are more resilient to bumps and drops than mechanical watches because they have fewer moving parts. Additionally, they are typically less expensive.

Cons

There isn't much creativity involved. Hand-assembled gears are more romantic than mass-produced circuit boards. Instead of the smooth sweep that collectors like, the second hand moves with a pronounced "tick–tick–tick" action. Additionally, because there is nothing visually appealing, you cannot notice the movement through the caseback.

Who should buy quartz: Individuals who desire a watch might just pick it up and leave. Sports watches, daily beaters, and anyone who prioritizes accuracy over custom.

Mechanical Movements

The most authentic of watchmaking, which dates back hundreds of years, is a manual mechanical movement. Having a watch requires you to engage with it on a regular basis, which fosters a special bond between you and the device on your wrist.

How a Mechanical Watch Works

It doesn't contain battery. Instead, all the energy is stored in a mainspring, which is a tightly wound metal strip. To tighten that spring, you must manually wind the watch, typically by rotating the crown. Through a number of gears and an ingenious device known as the escapement, the spring releases energy as it gradually unwinds. The hands are powered by the escapement, which controls the rate at which the energy is released.

Pros

Mechanical timepieces visually stunning, especially when viewed through a transparent caseback that allows you to see all the tiny gears in action. Rather than ticking from one second to the next, the second hand slowly moves around the dial. A mechanical watch can survive you and become a family heirloom if it is properly serviced every few years.

Cons

They require care. They need to be wound every day, and it costs money to have them professionally serviced every five to seven years. They usually gain or lose five to twenty seconds a day, making them less accurate than quartz. Every day, even the best mechanical chronometers—watches that have passed stringent accuracy tests—still wander by four to six seconds.

Collectors, purists, and anyone who wears a dress watch and truly appreciates its engineering are the people who should purchase mechanical watches.

Automatic Movements

Nowadays, automatic watches, referred to as self-winding, are the most common kind of mechanical watch. You can enjoy the craftsmanship of a classic mechanical watch without the inconvenience of manually winding it every morning.

How it works

With the addition of a rotor, an automatic movement functions nearly identically to a manual mechanical watch. A semicircular weight fastened to the movement's rear is called the rotor. That rotor spins as you move your wrist during the day. The mainspring is mechanically wound for you by the spinning motion. The watch will simply continue to operate on its own as long as you wear it frequently.

The Power Reserve

The amount of time the watch will continue to function after you remove it from your wrist is known as its power reserve. Most automatic timepieces have a power reserve of 36 to 42 hours after they are fully wound. Higher-end versions have far longer lifespans; some Oris timepieces, for instance, can last up to 120 hours (five full days). A 40-hour power reserve will carry you through the weekend just fine if you take your watch off on Friday night and don't put it back on until Monday morning.

Pros

If you use an automatic watch frequently, you won't have to wind it every day, which makes it very convenient. The intricacy of a well-made automatic movement is respected by both collectors and horologists.

Cons

Automatics are typically chunkier than their manual-wind relatives because the rotor adds thickness to the watch case. The watch will run out of power and halt if you don't use it for a few days. You will need to reset the time before you can wear it again.

Quick Comparison Table

FAQs

Which Movement Lasts the Longest?

If you get mechanical and automatic watches repaired on a regular basis, they can last over a century. Before the internal electronic components begin to deteriorate, quartz watches usually last for 20 to 30 years.

Why Are Automatic Watches More Expensive Than Quartz?

Many of the hundreds of tiny pieces that make up an automatic watch are put together by hand. Every gear, spring, and gem must precisely fit together. Conversely, printed circuit boards and inexpensive mass-produced batteries are used in quartz timepieces. The final price tag reflects the difference in production costs.

What Happens If You Stop Wearing Your Automatic Watch?

When its power runs out, which is typically between 38 and 70 hours, it will finally run down and stop. You may either manually wind it with the crown to restart it or gently shake it to start the rotor. Before wearing it, you must reset the time in either case.

Conclusion

What you want out of your watch will determine which movement is best for you.

• If you want accuracy, less upkeep, and a lower cost, go for quartz.
• If you prefer the daily routine of winding your watch and are interested in history, choose a manual mechanical.
• If you want the elegance and engineering of a mechanical watch with the ease of not needing to wind it every day, choose automatic.

No decision is incorrect. Because each variety has its own personality, many collectors wind up possessing timepieces with all three movements for various events. You can always add more later. Start with what works for your life right now.